Istanbul

Cochin Book Club Theme of the month was 'Istanbul', as was discussed in the meeting today - Napoleon Bonaparte said: "If the Earth were a single state, Istanbul would be its capital."

These were the few books discussed during the month and today. Was fortunate to meet few of the members too.

Arrived at the Tokatlian Hote in Istanbul with Hercule Poirot in 'Murder on the Orient Express' by  Agatha Christie on 24th August 2024, after taking the Taurus Express from Aleppo in Syria to Istanbul.  The original Orient Express had begun its journey in 1883 from Paris, France - Gare de l'Est (Eastern Railway Station) and ended at Istanbul (formerly Constantinople), Turkey, passing through several major European cities along the way, including Strasbourg, Munich, Vienna, Budapest, and Bucharest. The journey covered a distance of approximately 2,000 kilometers (1,240 miles) and was renowned for its luxury, providing an opulent and comfortable travel experience across Europe.  However, its legacy lives on through various iterations and services inspired by the famous train. The original route was discontinued in 1977. 

Situated in the Beyoglu district, close to Taksim Square and the vibrant Istiklal Street, opened in the late 19th Century, like the Pera Palace Hotel, the Tokatlian Hotel was a key stop for travelers on the Orient Express, further cementing its place in Istanbul's historical and cultural landscape. The Tokatlian Hotel is no longer in operation.

 Omar pamuk, fascinated me with 'The Museum of Innocence'  Courtesy Harish, there, could get a sneak peak into love story set in Istanbul around 1975 to 1984 between a wealthy businessman, Kemal, and a poorer Fusun, a distant relative, whom he meet after a long time.  Kemal has been engaged to a pretty girl named Sibel for two months when he meets, Fusun, who is working as a shop girl, while buying a handbag for his fiancee. What follows in the next month and a half is an intense and secretive physical and emotional relationship between them. Though it is clear that he has also fallen completely for Fusun, Kemal keeps denying this to himself, believing that his marriage with Sibel and secret relationship could continue forever. Kemal's engagement to Sibel breaks off and finally Füsun responds to his letter and agrees to meet him. Füsun has got married, living with her husband and parents, and pretends to meet Kemal just as a distant relation, with undercurrents of anger. For the next eight years Kemal keeps visiting the family for supper and expressing his love for Füsun in various ways, while finding consolation in various objects related to her that he carries away from the house. Will they unite? What happens then, is what the story is all about. 

The Goddess Pages by Laurie Sue Brockway  made me want to know more of Sophia cause Sophia - goddess of wisdom in Gnostic Christianity, is also referred to in Hebrew texts and the books of Solomon. She helps you tap into and trust your own intuition. Most of the research told me that  "Hagia Sophia" translates to "Holy Wisdom" in Greek is a term used to refer to Christ as the divine wisdom of God.

The Hagia Sophia was originally constructed as a Christian cathedral dedicated to Holy Wisdom (Sophia) by Emperor Justinian I in 537 AD. It was later converted into a mosque by the Ottoman Sultan Mehmed II in 1453 after the conquest of Constantinople. In 1935, it was secularized and transformed into a museum by Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, and in 2020, it was reconverted into a mosque.

While there were deities and mythological figures associated with wisdom in various ancient cultures, such as the Greek goddess Athena or the Egyptian goddess Seshat, Sophia as a deity is not a prominent figure in classical mythology. In Christian theology, Sophia represents divine wisdom rather than a goddess with a specific cult or mythology.

 I was 'Strolling through Istanbull with Hilary Sumner-Boyd and John Freely  guided by Philip Abraham Sir. Began from the amazing double layered, Galata bridge. The Galata Bridge spans the Golden Horn (Turkish: Haliç), an estuary that connects the Bosphorus Strait with the Sea of Marmara. The Golden Horn divides the historic peninsula of Istanbul from the more modern areas of the city, making the Galata Bridge a crucial link between the two parts. From one point of the bridge you can see the seven hills of Istanbul. Am at Sehazadebasi, realizing that while not a direct historical or architectural link, Süleymaniye Tea's name pays homage to the cultural legacy of the Suleymaniye Mosque and its surrounding area.

As I stroll through Istanbull, occasionally I took rest, 'Beneith the devil tree -Malabar 1921' by our own Anjana Varma- wondering how Istanbul history and geography effect the world giving birth to Kihilafat Kingpin's locally, and becoming a reason for the Malabar Mapala Mutiny.  We are all interconnected with a web of stories.  

Each of the 39 district in Istanbul offers a different perspective on the city’s vibrant life, history, and culture, making Istanbul a city full of diverse experiences and vast history of which there are various views.  Some stories still remain a mystery.  Hope Hercule Poirot will help resolve some of the mysteries.

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If you have time to visit only one place, they say visit Hagia Sophia due to it's vast and unique history. But if you wish to travel around start from the Galata Bridge. 

Istanbul is a sprawling city with a rich tapestry of neighborhoods and districts. As of the most recent administrative divisions, Istanbul is divided into 39 districts, each with its own unique character and attractions. Here’s a brief overview of some notable districts:

1. Historical Peninsula (Fatih)

Sultanahmet: Home to iconic landmarks like the Hagia Sophia, Blue Mosque, and Topkapı Palace.

Eminönü: Known for the Spice Bazaar and the bustling waterfront.

Beyazıt: Features the Grand Bazaar and Istanbul University.

2. Modern and Commercial Districts

Şişli: A major commercial area with shopping centers, offices, and modern architecture.

Beşiktaş: Known for its vibrant nightlife, universities, and the Dolmabahçe Palace.

Levent: A business district with modern skyscrapers and luxury shopping malls.

3. Cultural and Artistic Areas

Beyoğlu: Includes Istiklal Street, Taksim Square, and Galata Tower; known for its nightlife and cultural venues.

Karaköy: A trendy district with cafes, galleries, and a historical waterfront area.

4. Residential and Diverse Districts

Kadıköy: Located on the Asian side, known for its lively market, ferry terminals, and arts scene.

Üsküdar: A historic district with beautiful mosques and traditional Turkish architecture.

Çekmeköy: A more suburban area with parks and family-friendly environments.

5. Waterfront and Scenic Areas

Bosphorus Districts:

Ortaköy: Known for its waterfront mosque and lively square.

Arnavutköy: Features charming Ottoman-style houses and waterfront cafes.

6. Emerging and Trendy Areas

Şişli: A mix of modern residential and commercial spaces.

Ataşehir: A modern, planned district with new residential and business developments.

7. Administrative and Industrial Zones

Esenler: Known for its bus terminal and industrial areas.

Gaziosmanpaşa: A mixed residential and commercial district with ongoing development.

Each district in Istanbul offers a different perspective on the city’s vibrant life, history, and culture, making Istanbul a city full of diverse experiences.

Though Hercule Poirot would not our CBC members did.

Discussion did also cover,  Armenian Genocide, Janisseries, rulers, changes and effects, GDP,  writers and translations.

Istanbul is famously built on seven hills, each associated with specific districts that are significant both historically and culturally. Here’s a breakdown of the districts corresponding to each of the seven hills:

1. First Hill:

• District: Sultanahmet
• Significance: This hill is home to many of Istanbul’s most iconic landmarks, including the Hagia Sophia, Blue Mosque, and Topkapi Palace.

2. Second Hill:

• District: Beyazıt
• Significance: This hill hosts the Beyazıt Mosque, Beyazıt Tower, and the Istanbul University, making it a center of education and culture.

3. Third Hill:

• District: Fındıklı and Taksim
• Significance: The area is known for the Taksim Square, a modern cultural and commercial hub, and the Gezi Park. It also features the Pera district, known for its historical buildings.

4. Fourth Hill:

• District: Şişli and Mecidiyeköy
• Significance: This hill includes parts of the Nişantaşı neighborhood, known for shopping and upscale living, and is a vital commercial center.

5. Fifth Hill:

• District: Karaköy
• Significance: This area is important for its port activities and cultural spots, including galleries and cafes, as well as being close to the historic Galata Tower.

6. Sixth Hill:

• District: Üsküdar
• Significance: This area on the Asian side features the Maiden’s Tower and is known for its historic mosques and traditional neighborhoods.

7. Seventh Hill:

• District: Eminönü and Karaköy
• Significance: This hill is central to Istanbul’s commercial activities, with the Spice Bazaar and New Mosque located here, making it a bustling area of trade and tourism.

In Summary:

Each of Istanbul's seven hills is associated with specific districts that reflect the city’s rich history and diverse culture. From the ancient landmarks of Sultanahmet to the modern vibe of Taksim and the vibrant trade of Eminönü, these hills encapsulate the unique character of Istanbul.

The "last stroll" in Istanbul can be a poignant and memorable experience, offering a blend of nostalgia, beauty, and reflection on the city’s rich history and vibrant culture. Here’s how such a stroll might unfold:

1. Scenic Routes:

Bosphorus Promenade: Start your walk along the Bosphorus waterfront, where you can enjoy stunning views of the strait, iconic landmarks like the Maiden’s Tower, and the beautiful Ottoman palaces that line the shores.

İstiklal Avenue: Walk through this bustling pedestrian street in Beyoğlu, filled with shops, cafes, and street performers. The nostalgic tram adds a charming touch to the vibrant atmosphere.

2. Historical Landmarks:

Sultanahmet District: Visit the Hagia Sophia, Blue Mosque, and Topkapi Palace. Reflect on the centuries of history that these sites embody and their significance in both Byzantine and Ottoman cultures.

Galata Tower: Climb to the top of this medieval tower for panoramic views of the city. The sunset from here can be particularly breathtaking.

3. Cultural Experiences:

Street Food: Sample local delicacies like simit (sesame bread), balık ekmek (fish sandwich), or kumpir (stuffed baked potato) from street vendors. Enjoying these flavors can evoke memories of your time in the city.

Art and Music: Explore local galleries or listen to live music in one of the cafes. Istanbul has a thriving arts scene that captures its diverse cultural heritage.

4. Tranquil Spaces:

Gülhane Park: Take a leisurely walk through this historical park, once part of the Topkapi Palace grounds. Enjoy the greenery and peaceful atmosphere away from the city’s hustle and bustle.

Pierre Loti Hill: Reach this hill for a serene view of the Golden Horn. It’s an ideal spot to sit, reflect, and take in the beauty of Istanbul.

5. Sunset Views:

Üsküdar or Kadıköy: Head to the Asian side for breathtaking sunset views over the Bosphorus. The changing colors of the sky against the backdrop of the city create a memorable farewell.

6. Final Reflections:

Writing or Journaling: Consider bringing a notebook to jot down thoughts, memories, and reflections on your experiences in Istanbul. Capturing your thoughts can make your farewell feel more meaningful.

Take Photos: Document your last moments in the city. Photos of familiar sights can evoke cherished memories for years to come.

In Summary:

A "last stroll" in Istanbul can be a rich and emotional experience, filled with scenic beauty, historical significance, and cultural depth. Whether you choose to wander along the Bosphorus, explore bustling streets, or find quiet corners in parks, each step can encapsulate the essence of this incredible city and the memories it has given you.