Cochin: Fame and Fables ~ M.K. Das (23 of 25)

 

Cochin: Fame and Fables by M.K. Das is a compelling exploration of Kochi's transformation from a cluster of fishing villages into a vibrant metropolis. Drawing from his extensive experience as a journalist, Das presents a narrative that intertwines historical events, cultural shifts, and personal anecdotes to paint a vivid picture of the city's evolution.

Parallels are drawn to erstwhile Bombay, which like Kochi was fishers hamlet untill 1820 when it replaced Calcutta as Opium city and surpassed Calcutta in bullion remittances from China which eventually triggered the industrial revolution in the present commercial capital of India, Mumbai. 

Similarly in Kerala,  till about the 15th Century, Calicut was the most happening place with the Zamorin ruling supreme on the west cost and Moors controlling trade, untill the arrival of Portuguese. They controlled much of the northern and central Kerala.  They tried to create disrupt, but it did not work, so moved to Cochin. The feud between Zamorin and Raja of Kochi lasted for almost 250 years, between 1502 and 1757 with 9 major wars. 

Cochin has probably had the shortest history among all the towns and cities of Kerala. The first every mention of Cochin was in the writings of Ma Huan, the official interpreter and chronicler of the legendary Chinese sea adventurer Cheng Ho.  Cochin could have got its name from 'Kochazhi' after the small river that connects the backwaters to the Arabian Sea, or the name Cochin in China, or from 'Kochas'. Jews were locally called so, when they settled there in the aftermath of the 1341 Tsunami that hit Kodungallur and Mattancherry from 'Mattan' in Hebrew meaning 'gift' and 'Cherry' meaning 'settlement'. for Portugues it was 'Cochim de Cima' meaning higher or up-town. It is widely belived that Jews were the first to arrive and settle down in the West Cost of Kerala may be around 986-932 BC during the time of Solomon escaping from the siege of Palestine first, then Assyrians in 8th Century and finally by romans in 1st Century CE. 

The Portuguese named it 'Little Lisbon', the Dutch 'Homely Holland', British called it 'Mini England' and now it is known as 'Fort Kochi' the leitmotif of 'God's own Country'. It was the Portuguese who first set up the Fort and christened it 'Emmanuel' after the King of Portugal on 1 October 1503. Slowly it was turned into a township in lines similar to the ones back home. With three European countries setting their footprint here, this place was unlike the rest of the oriental nation. There was even a big library here, but all that was build by them were destroyed by Dutch. They are the twin towns. 

1901 census had a little over 23,000 population with wild undergrowth interspearsed with well-stocked water bodies, in our own Ernakulam, whose name could have been from 'Eraivan' the presiding deity Erayanar, so 'Ernakulam'. Erayanarkulam: Translating to "the abode of Lord Shiva," derived from "Erayanar," a name for Shiva.

Some say it is from a slurry called Irangiyal that hit the cost in 1341 or so with its Tamil root because Ernakulam. 

The third and the most popular one is that of Devalan also called Rishinagan, According to local lore, Devala was a sage who, due to a curse, was transformed into a serpent-like being. In his quest for redemption, he wandered into a dense forest where he discovered a Shiva Linga submerged in mud. Despite facing hostility and fear from locals who referred to him as Rishi Nagam (Sage Serpent), Devala remained undeterred in his devotion. Moved by his unwavering penance, Lord Shiva and Goddess Parvati appeared before him and instructed him to bathe in a nearby pond. Upon doing so, Devala was freed from his curse. He was in search for a suitable place to install a Siva idol brought from West cost. He found the sandy spot near sea on the westrn side of Sahyadri range, placed the idol on the ground but was then unable to lift it.  In honor of Devala's transformation and devotion, the area was named Rishinagakulam, meaning "the pond of the sage serpent." Over time, this name evolved into Ernakulam. The Ernakulathappan Temple, dedicated to Lord Shiva, was established at this site. It holds significant importance in Kerala's spiritual landscape and was historically under the patronage of the Chera Dynasty. The temple underwent major renovations in the 19th century under Diwan Edakkunni Sankara Warrier. Ernakulathappan Temple serve as a central landmark and symbol of the city's enduring legacy.

Muziris is the port that is famous and has mention in the early centuries of Christiana era till 9th century, when Quilon then known as Koulam Mali, present day Kollam when al-Basrah in the Persion Gulf (present day Basra, Iraq) to Canton in China found it an ideal halting centre. It retained its position till middle of the 14th Century, when Calicut up north replaced it, but it's supremacy did not last long, as the wheel of fortune turned and stopped at Cochin.  The headquarters of the ruling Perumpadappu Swarupam (Cochin State) was shifted to Cochin from Mahodayapuram (presently Kodungallur) after the Tsunami. The original seat was Pazhayannur, north of present day Thrissur. This was after the departure of last Perumal to Mecca after embracing Islam. 

The story of  Konkanis from North of India ran parallel to the Jews. Later from North west came the Gujarathis. First they came during the Sangam era (1st to 5th century CE) to propogate Jainism, and latter as settlers in 19th Century. 6000 families moved to Cochin during 1866-1890.  Then came the Chinese/Buddhist, Muslims, Parsis. Few Maharashtrians too came here somewhere around 1850 mostly Brahmins from Ratnagiri. Then came other settlers which all add up to 30-odd groups of different religions and castes, speaking as many as 16 languages making a grand bouquet of social amity. Incredible mix of a kind, seldom seen elsewhere.  

Das chronicles the city's journey through different eras, including the reigns of the Cholas, the Perumals, the Portuguese, the Dutch, and the British, each leaving an indelible mark on its architecture, culture, trade, agriculture and traditions.  The short interregnum between the exit of the Dutch and the entry of the British was filled by the Mysorean Sultans, Hyder Ali and Tipu Sultan who made inroads to North and Central parts.   Admittedly the scale and speed of Cochin's growth was no patch on what Bombay actually recorded and the gap still remains. For all its present glitz and glory.

While the rise of Cochin to prominence began with the destruction of Muziris in the 1341 tsunami, the real break through came 600 years later when the Arabian sea was robbed of over 780 acres of land to construct a port, combined with a rail linkage that connected the state with the rest of the country and the arrival of electricity, the stage was set for a titanic transformation that refused to end and still continues. 

One of the standout features of the book is its focus on Kochi's maritime history. Das provides detailed accounts of the city's development as a major spice trading center and its role in connecting India to global trade networks. He also sheds light on the contributions of European explorers like Vasco da Gama and the Portuguese navigator Cabral in establishing Kochi's maritime prominence. 'The history of civilization', wrote the legendary British engineer Sir Robert Bristow, 'is written in the history of ports'.  The Cochin Port was the brainchildren of consciously pursued policies and programmes by State's Maharajas, supported and executed by bureaucracy. With the idea from Captain Castor and opening up of Suez Canal in 1869. It was to be the 'Gateway of South India' alternative to Mumbai, reducing the distance from Europe to India and Far East by 400 miles. Cochin Chamber of Commerce President J.H. Aspinwall was quick to seize the opportunity and work on it. Cost was a constraint and discussion were on from 1878 to 1903, untill Messrs Sir John Wolfe Barry came up with his report, and the project sprang to life.  Sir Robert Bristow built The Cochin Port, it is  an engineering marvel and a great game changer. This was supported by Lord Willingdon and his wife, then Governor of Madras Presidency and later Viceroy of India.  The project had 4 parts: The preliminary investigation, second was building of foreshore protection, the reclamation wall and experimental dredging, third was the major dredging, when the streamers could come in, first was Padma. The fourth stage was started 7 years later in 1936 was of expansion and converting it to a major port. Indiscipline and corruption was to be tackled with discipline and human approach. A rival soon arriver 4 years since it was declared a major port in 1936 and it was the International Container Terminal at Vallarpadam. 

Bristow knew the need for a matching support system, and was instrumental in building the rail and road connectivity. All his efforts and pains are documented in 'Cochin Saga'.  There were resistance and hindrances for acquisition of land,  sanction of funds, and many more. Till middle of 19th century, road ways were prominent means of transport. It was Dewan Sankara Warrier around 1840 to 1856 Who realised and worked on the development of surface transport. The first road was belived to be the Chittoor road, to the Krishna Temple. Then  came the Banerji Road named after Dewan A.R. Banerji and Shanmukham Road named after Dewan Sir R.K. Shanmukham Chetty.  Several other main and link roads were build from 1914. The first 70 feet road was Sahodaran Aayyappan road.  R. Madhavan Nayar, started the first bus service (Chandra Motor Services) sometime in 1945 in Ernakulam.  There was AMS services connecting Thripuntara to Ernakulam. What brightened the life here is the arrival of electricity in 1939, thanks to the initiative taken by Dewan Sir R.K. Shanmukham Chetty from a Madra based company, Chandrie & Co. Before that it was oil and then Kerosene lamps that were used. 

The state anthem was 'Madamahesha Kulapathi....'

General John Munro (June 1778 – 25 January 1858)  a Scottish soldier and administrator who served as Resident and Diwan of the States of Travancore and Cochin between 1810 and 1819 was instrumentalin bringing about administrative consistency in Keralam

 Das explores the city's multicultural fabric, discussing the legends and folklore that have become integral to Kochi's identity. From the stories of the Cochin Jews and their connections to the lost tribes of Israel to local heroes like the "Paravur Veeran," the book captures the diverse narratives that have shaped the city's ethos.

The author doesn't shy away from discussing the challenges faced by modern Kochi, such as rapid urbanization, environmental concerns, and heritage preservation. He provides insights into the administrative decisions and infrastructural developments that have propelled the city into the contemporary era. The book has been described as a "rich treasure house of new information about the port city’s history," presented in an accessible and captivating manner. 

For those interested in the multifaceted history of Kochi, Cochin: Fame and Fables offers a comprehensive and engaging account that bridges the past and present of this dynamic city sensitively tracing it's eventful journey across decades.