Samayal ~ Viji Varadarajan (16 of 26)

 

The pleasures of south Indian cooking, the samayal and saapadu is covered in this book. Women plucked vegetables from heir courtyard, along with flowers for pooja, had the batter for the day grinded on the aattukal (mortal and pestle) , broke the coconut used for cooking, ground the curry paste and chutney on the ammikallu(the rectangle stone and pestle) and cut the vegetables on aruvamanai (wooden plank with a sickle shaped knife attached to it)

Always extract the puree of Tamrind by soaking it in a cup of hot water. Use the block of gelled asafoetida, soaking in 1/4th cup of water for authentic flavour, heat a teaspoon of oil or ghee in a saucepan and add the mustard seeds, close the lid of the pan to avoid popping, pressure-pan/cooker saves time, retains colour and flavour of the various ingredients and is good for cooking. 

Store powders and all kind of flours in a zip-lock or a tupperware container and refregerate them. It helps to retain the freshness and flavour for a long time. Wipe the wetness from the curry leaves, coriander leaves or mint leaves, gently wrap in a kitchen paper and store. 

Rice is the staple food of South India because of the geographical features and climate. Annam, as it is called is representative of wealth and prosperity. Rice can also feed many mouths. It can be cooked in many ways, ideal consistency is steamed rice, light and fluffy grain like the petals of jasmine flower. Neither mushy nor dry. You can make variety of 'Saadham' with it like Puliyodharai , Thengai, Yelumiccha Pazha (lemon), Milagu Jeeragam, Yellu, Thakkali, Bisi Bele Hulli, Kudaimilagai Carrot, Vaangi, Maangai, Kothamalli,  Thayir, and Venn Pongal.

The story of sambhar is interesting. The Marathas were ruling Tanjore, Sambhoji was a great cook and very fond of his amti with a handful of the tart kokum thrown in. In a particular season, the kokum that was imported from the Maratha homeland, did not reach the bare larder of the king's kitchen. Sambhoji was cooking and the minions were shivering in their dhothis/sargong to tell him that his favorite dish could no be made that day.  A vidushak, recommended experimenting the use of tamrind pulp, thus was born sambhoji's amti, that in time became sambhar. 

The first curry for Tamizh meal has sambar. Then comes other kuzhambu and pitlai.

Kari - Vegetable variations:

The word 'curry' comes from 'Kari' for dry vegetable with spices. British added water and meat to it and made it curry. Now the dry version is called 'poriyal' as used by Chettiar and Mudalayar community. 

Home-made yoghurt:

Take a cup of warm milk. Add a teaspoon of starter yoghurt. Beat it in with a whisk and set askide in a warm place. Depending on the room temperature it will set in 4 to 8 hours. 

Yogurt can be blended into a salty or sweet smoothie known as moru or buttermilk. 

You can also make pachadi out of it. 

Rasams: Soups for the soul:

Tangy soups with the richness of pepper and cumin seeds are the Tam Bram food for the soul. Rasams form the second course of a standard meal and is mixed up with steamed rice and eaten often with an appreciative slurp.  They can be served as started in the modern milieu. 

Rasam is a liquid dish and its base is mashed up thuvar dhal or the stock from the cooked dhal. The method of eating this liquid course off a banana leaf on festive occasions is an art by itself!

There are various Rasams like:

• Thakkali Paruppu Rasam
• Dhideer Rasam
• Mysore Rasam
• Yelumicha Pazham Rasam
• Milagu Rasam
• Jeera Rasam
• Poondu Rasam
• Annaasi Pazha Rasam

Chutneys meaning to crush, are spicy condiments and are called thuvayal in Tamil Nadu. They may be dry or wet preparations. Dry chutneys are served in powder form. Chutney is often eaten fresh, using strongly flavoured ingredients that are perennial or seasonal vegetables. No preserving agents are used. 

Note: As chutneys are not cooked use bottled/boiled water for blending. 

Relishes are usually sweeter in taste and made with fruits and vegetables with special taste maker added. Fresh chutneys are prepared cold in a blender and fruit chutneys may require cooking. 

Kothsu meaning sauce, contains some gravy in it and is used as accompaniments for dry dishes like idli, dosai, and pongal. 

Tiffins/Palharam

Idli is the breakfast dish of South India and is equivalent of bread here. Another favourate is Dosai or Pancake variations, it can be soft, crunchy, crispy, fat, thin or paper. Tip is to heat up the griddle/non-stick, reduce the flame to medium, dribble a little oil on the hot surface and use a flat sppon or Katori to pour out and quickly spread the batter round and flat on the griddle. Try adding a drop of gee before you flip. Then we have upma, avial, vadai and Sundals. 

The sweet Touch

Meal begin with a dab of something weet on the banana leaf. Payasam is rice pudding, usually an offering to God before it is served in a meal. 

Vadai, payasam and pachadi are special items cooked when guests are expected. 

Podis: Piquant powders

Spice powders are an important taste- enhancer in South Indian cuisine. The recipes are handed down from generation to generation and can have a distinctive stamp of a particular region or family.  The spice podi's have several uses: to add flavour and texture to a gravy or vegetable in the cooking; as accompaniments to plain rice and special ones are an integral accompaniment to a tiffin. Many of these powders are easily available in pranded sachets at stores.

The asafoetida lumps add a distinctive flavour to the powders. You can substitute it with the powder variety in a generous proportion. 

In the end we have healthy drinks, like Paanagam, Neer Mor and Inji Sorasam.