Chardam (Chota) Darshan - Part 1 The Beginning

It was the time of Malikapaksham also known as Pitru Paksha - the 15 day holy period  when Hindus perform rituals, including Tarpan, Shradh, and Pind Daan that I was fortunate to take up the journey during to this divine Deva Bhoomi for Chardam (Chota) Darshan. Though often called Chardam,  actual Chardam is Rameshwaram; Dwaraka; Puri and Bhadrinath. Char Dham literally means ‘the four abodes/seats’.

These main 'dhamas' are the shrines of Lord Vishnu and Rameshwaram is a shrine of lord Shiva. All the 'dhamas' are related to four epochs,(1) Dham of Satyuga- Badrinath, Uttarakhand (2) Dham of Tretayuga -Rameswaram, Tamil Nadu (3) Dham of Dwaparayuga - Dvaraka, Gujarat (4) Dham of Kaliyuga - Jagannatha Puri, Odisha.

This year, Pitru Paksha began on September 10 and ended on Sarva Pitru Amavasya on September 25. As per Hindu Panchang, during this 15-day cycle that commences on the full moon, ancestors visit Earth to shower blessings on their children. My trip started the beginning of this auspicious period and ended on the day it finished; auspicious time when the Pandavas descended to heaven and is believed to have done from the present day Uttarakand aka uttaranchal.

During these two weeks, as we pray for the peace of  ancestors, it is believed that if food is offered to animals like cows, dogs, and crows, the deceased ancestors are also being fed in the process. 

Trip started with pooja at Hanuman temple at Aluva and flag hoisting for a safe trip to be removed when we return.

Went to Kudalmanikam temple when some had started the journey in train, we took the flight upto Delhi on Sunday, as leaves were my constraint. 

Reached Delhi Sunday afternoon, all were to meet at Ayyappa Dharma Shasta  temple at Mayur Vihar phase 3. There were co-travellers who were having their first flight, some had Knife in hand bag, power bang in check in, luggage was around helping them. Train was late, and then, there were some issue with the bus. 

We started our journey to Haridwar almost after 7 pm, took a break in between, the moon view was amazing, first orange, turning yellow and white. 

Finally we reached Sri Vyasa Ashram, Kashimatt, Haripur Marg, Sadhubala.(Near Bharathmatha Temple) after 1 am. With room allocation and settling, it was almost three, when we hit the bed. Temperature there was hotter than in Kerala. 

Monday  went around Vyasa ashram, saw amazing Ganga flow both in the morning at the courtyard, serene.

Evening, in a battery Rickshaw went to a place believed to be one where Rakshaprajapathis Dashayagam took place, also the birth place of Sathidevi  where she finally took her life. 

While returning  visited Gita Mandir where we could not only see Gita Ma in splendid colors but also

And the 10 Awatara. Alaypayuthe song was sung there with violin being played by friends. 

Finally saw the Ganga Aarthi in the evening, full crowded. For me it was like finally meeting the soul of my live after years of waiting. Had Ganga Aarthi and took oath to keep Gaga clean Har-ki-Pouri. Ganganadhiyile sandhya. Aarathikalude ozhukk. 

Ganga Aarthi 

Tuesday morning had a dip in the Ganges. It rained heavily as we set out for it at 5.30 am in the morning.  

Haridwar & Ganga Aarthi

Did vehicle pooja with bus called Ganga; Yamuna; Saraswathi and Alaknanda. 

We were in Saraswathi with Mahenderji as our driver, who wanted to be ahead of others. Having 20 years of experience he tried to fly the bus without seat built. So the beginning was with a bang right at the first exit on a traffic jam road with people and cow all in between.  He was strictly instructed and not allowed to overtake the bus Ganga.

We set out towards Bhadrinat with prayers:

സമസ്ത ജഗദാധാരാ 

ശങ്ഗചക്ര ഗദാധര

ദേവദേഹീ മമാനുജ്ഞ

യുഷ്മത്  തീർത്ഥനിഷേവനി 

തപോയുതം പാവനപാപനാശകം 

മുനീന്ദ്രദേവാർച്ചിത സിദ്ധപൂജിതം 

അവ്യക്ത നാരായണ വാസഭൂമിനം 

നമാമി തം ഹൈമവതാഖ്യ ഭൂതലം നമാമി തം ഹൈമവതാഖ്യ ഭൂതലം

 🙏 രാധേ ശ്യാം ..

If Ganges is our beloved mother, the mightly Himalayas is our father and we were on our journey exploring it - never realised that there was much more than expected that was instored way ahead. 

The sight of the mountains were enthralling, initially as we left the plains it was like the way to Malkapara or Munnar as we left the plains but soon the landscape started changing.  

Lunch was very late, but it did not matter, for I was awestuck by the sights around, especially the Devaprayag. Never realised even then, that there was lot of learnings that I would be unfolding in the days to come. 

A separate post on Ganga  and the Prayags. At this point, just realised that this is where River Bhagirathi and River Alaknanda met to form Ganga - But it never striked me the the significance of it or this was where Ganga was born, though was in love with this place for some reasons unknown to the external self. 

Was very late to reach piplekotti where we stayed that night to begin the actual trip. Well we were into fourth day of the Pilgrimage,  but the real uphill task was yet to start.

Next morning the cloud was misty and we saw the sign, welcome to Devabhoomi.

These were the places for us to visit, but the time taken to travel that distance was not confined to the speed and was much more than the normal,  given the condition of cockskrew roads, whether conditions and landslides. 

Mountains were filled with 'Devatharu' trees.

 Am wondering Christmas 🎄would be a version of this

This mountain mesmerized us and we felt something mystic about it, soon to realize that there indeed was. We were soon approaching Joshimat. It is believed that it was here Shankaracharya first halted,  there is his ashram  and beautiful temple just facing this mountain. 

The road being very narrow we had to park ahead and walk behind to an amazing Narasimhamurathi temple with huge clean space around facing this mountain 

and Shankaracharays ancient home and temple adjacent. 

Narsingh Temple is the winter home for Lord Badri who is shifted here when main temple of Badrinath remains closed from the time of Diwali to Akshay Tritiya. The deity of Lord Vishnu in the form of Narsingh (half human and half lion) is revered in this temple.

Shankaracharya Math is believed to be established by the Hindu Guru, Adi Shankaracharya, it is a sacred place housing the temples of Lord Badri and Rajrajeshwari Devi.

From Narasing temple walked few kilometers upward 

Sweet drinks were served to all, and bangles given to ladies.

We also did see the Amar Kalpa Vriksha.

Joshimat

As we continued,  the bus had a huge jump. Was in the back seat that day. Went up and came Ta-Da down with a bang. Tried to get up but could not.

Halted at Vishnuprayag for lunch, I could neither walk nor move. 

Vishnuprayag is one of the sacred prayags of the ‘Panch Prayag’ group, the Vishnuprayag lies at the confluence of rivers Alaknanda and Dhauliganga in Chamoli district . It is believed that sage Narad worshipped Lord Vishnu at this holy confluence. Lots of pilgrims take a holy dip in the waters of the ‘Vishnu Kund’ and visit the ‘Vishnu Temple’ dedicated to Lord Vishnu.

After lunch as a concession I got to sit right in the front in the driver's cabin area.

Finally reached Bhadrinat.  Guess this post is becoming too long. How about the rest being in the next?