Summer Town

 

Samayal ~ Viji Varadarajan (16 of 26)

 

The pleasures of south Indian cooking, the samayal and saapadu is covered in this book. Women plucked vegetables from heir courtyard, along with flowers for pooja, had the batter for the day grinded on the aattukal (mortal and pestle) , broke the coconut used for cooking, ground the curry paste and chutney on the ammikallu(the rectangle stone and pestle) and cut the vegetables on aruvamanai (wooden plank with a sickle shaped knife attached to it)

Always extract the puree of Tamrind by soaking it in a cup of hot water. Use the block of gelled asafoetida, soaking in 1/4th cup of water for authentic flavour, heat a teaspoon of oil or ghee in a saucepan and add the mustard seeds, close the lid of the pan to avoid popping, pressure-pan/cooker saves time, retains colour and flavour of the various ingredients and is good for cooking. 

Store powders and all kind of flours in a zip-lock or a tupperware container and refregerate them. It helps to retain the freshness and flavour for a long time. Wipe the wetness from the curry leaves, coriander leaves or mint leaves, gently wrap in a kitchen paper and store. 

Rice is the staple food of South India because of the geographical features and climate. Annam, as it is called is representative of wealth and prosperity. Rice can also feed many mouths. It can be cooked in many ways, ideal consistency is steamed rice, light and fluffy grain like the petals of jasmine flower. Neither mushy nor dry. You can make variety of 'Saadham' with it like Puliyodharai , Thengai, Yelumiccha Pazha (lemon), Milagu Jeeragam, Yellu, Thakkali, Bisi Bele Hulli, Kudaimilagai Carrot, Vaangi, Maangai, Kothamalli,  Thayir, and Venn Pongal.

The story of sambhar is interesting. The Marathas were ruling Tanjore, Sambhoji was a great cook and very fond of his amti with a handful of the tart kokum thrown in. In a particular season, the kokum that was imported from the Maratha homeland, did not reach the bare larder of the king's kitchen. Sambhoji was cooking and the minions were shivering in their dhothis/sargong to tell him that his favorite dish could no be made that day.  A vidushak, recommended experimenting the use of tamrind pulp, thus was born sambhoji's amti, that in time became sambhar. 

The first curry for Tamizh meal has sambar. Then comes other kuzhambu and pitlai.

Kari - Vegetable variations:

The word 'curry' comes from 'Kari' for dry vegetable with spices. British added water and meat to it and made it curry. Now the dry version is called 'poriyal' as used by Chettiar and Mudalayar community. 

Home-made yoghurt:

Take a cup of warm milk. Add a teaspoon of starter yoghurt. Beat it in with a whisk and set askide in a warm place. Depending on the room temperature it will set in 4 to 8 hours. 

Yogurt can be blended into a salty or sweet smoothie known as moru or buttermilk. 

You can also make pachadi out of it. 

Rasams: Soups for the soul:

Tangy soups with the richness of pepper and cumin seeds are the Tam Bram food for the soul. Rasams form the second course of a standard meal and is mixed up with steamed rice and eaten often with an appreciative slurp.  They can be served as started in the modern milieu. 

Rasam is a liquid dish and its base is mashed up thuvar dhal or the stock from the cooked dhal. The method of eating this liquid course off a banana leaf on festive occasions is an art by itself!

There are various Rasams like:

• Thakkali Paruppu Rasam
• Dhideer Rasam
• Mysore Rasam
• Yelumicha Pazham Rasam
• Milagu Rasam
• Jeera Rasam
• Poondu Rasam
• Annaasi Pazha Rasam

Chutneys meaning to crush, are spicy condiments and are called thuvayal in Tamil Nadu. They may be dry or wet preparations. Dry chutneys are served in powder form. Chutney is often eaten fresh, using strongly flavoured ingredients that are perennial or seasonal vegetables. No preserving agents are used. 

Note: As chutneys are not cooked use bottled/boiled water for blending. 

Relishes are usually sweeter in taste and made with fruits and vegetables with special taste maker added. Fresh chutneys are prepared cold in a blender and fruit chutneys may require cooking. 

Kothsu meaning sauce, contains some gravy in it and is used as accompaniments for dry dishes like idli, dosai, and pongal. 

Tiffins/Palharam

Idli is the breakfast dish of South India and is equivalent of bread here. Another favourate is Dosai or Pancake variations, it can be soft, crunchy, crispy, fat, thin or paper. Tip is to heat up the griddle/non-stick, reduce the flame to medium, dribble a little oil on the hot surface and use a flat sppon or Katori to pour out and quickly spread the batter round and flat on the griddle. Try adding a drop of gee before you flip. Then we have upma, avial, vadai and Sundals. 

The sweet Touch

Meal begin with a dab of something weet on the banana leaf. Payasam is rice pudding, usually an offering to God before it is served in a meal. 

Vadai, payasam and pachadi are special items cooked when guests are expected. 

Podis: Piquant powders

Spice powders are an important taste- enhancer in South Indian cuisine. The recipes are handed down from generation to generation and can have a distinctive stamp of a particular region or family.  The spice podi's have several uses: to add flavour and texture to a gravy or vegetable in the cooking; as accompaniments to plain rice and special ones are an integral accompaniment to a tiffin. Many of these powders are easily available in pranded sachets at stores.

The asafoetida lumps add a distinctive flavour to the powders. You can substitute it with the powder variety in a generous proportion. 

In the end we have healthy drinks, like Paanagam, Neer Mor and Inji Sorasam. 

Would you like some bread with thst Book? ~ Veena Venugopal (12 of 26)

 Thanks to Shobha Mam from CBC for introducing this book in our Culinary Literature discussion "Would you like some bread with that book.".  

• How as a child her mother and she tried making something from  'Ritu Dalmia's' Italian Khana, and it turned out to be a disaster
• Kitchen Confidential by Bourdain, that straddles the 'shock and awe' end of writing about food and cooking. He draws vivid pictures of his heroin-addicted journey from one crazy kitchen to another. 
• The effort in cutting the carrots and giving it perfect shape is mentioned by Bill Buford who runs Babbo in New York. He shows us why we should never think of working in a restaurant kitchen no matter how many guest tell us we should. 
• Mastering the art of French cooking by Julie/Julia : Movie is better than book, she does not cook to perfection but just attempts to cook and tick.
• Blood, Bones and Butter - the book divided into three sessions , memoir of Gabrielle Hamilton, who runs 'Prune' in New York's East Village. - Blood her happy childhood, Bones her struggle after parents divorce and growing up age and in Butter she switches from being a lesbian to a woman married to an Italian man and the mother of two kids. In her world, it seems you can go from not knowing the first thing about running a restaurant to being one of New York's best female chefs, just as easily as you can morph from being a committed lesbian to a happy earth mother sucking baby and a seaside home in Italy. 

She concludes by saying that other than Enid Blyton, perhaps, there a no women writer who can make you drool (or set your hormones ablaze) with their words. 

The book by Veena Venugopal covers not just Culinary but various instances of Literary Love. With the number of various books mentioned in her essays, we get lost in the wonderland of books. As Namita Gokhale has rightly worded and is mentioned on the cover page "A delightful book about the delights of reading". I had a hearty laugh as I read through the 14 evocative and laugh-out- loud essays covered in this.

Though the essay begin with "Coming Home" and " To kill a Mocking Bird", the writing started agonizing over which book should make it to the backpack while planning the trek to Everest Base camp, rather than training. She took  'Touching the void', just after completing 'Into thin air'. Mother was nostalgic as I read through and could see my mother in hers. The Malayalee Mothers concern and instructions to her daughters. Like"Whether the leaf falls on the thorn or the thorn falls on the leaf, it's only the leaf that's ruined.", "Remember when wealth is lost, nothing is lost when health is lost, something is lost; when character is lost, alas, everything is lost." On the book 'Vox' Clinton and Lewinsky, and she lost her character. 

If Everyone's reading means that the hype is good and the book is bad on 'Maximum City' which the author overhears. 

Veena Venugopal fantasized about falling in love with men who share her love of books or is spat upon by a book-crazed gentleman who is compelled to sell his library.  

Book covers what to (not)  read in a Mumbai local train - start reading a new book on Monday/Dont read funny books in train/Cover the book you are reading with brown paper; when you are pregnant and the diwnside of literary festivals/book launches but the need to hide the author. Reads in different places and origin of different genres and how they compliment today's society are also covered. Like Whodunit, Arushi Talwar, Kate Summerscales book 'The suspicions of Mr. Whicher' or 'The Murder at Road Hill House' and Edgar Allen Poe creating the first detective,  Auguste Dupin in 1841.

We need to Read. Rinse. Repeat. As you will be startled by the realization that the person who has changed the most is yourself. The joy of owning a real book and changes over the years. The Joy of reading when you have a child - how the reading pattern change over time.  The last chapter starts with these lines from 'A Suitable Boy'

'And, gentle reader, you as well,

The fountainhead of all remittance,

Buy me before good sense insists

You'll strain your purse and sprain your wrists.'

Spirits of the World (11 of 26)

 

One can never know too much.  When we discuss culinary literature and food in high spirits how can we miss about the spirits of the world? 

Alcohol has been around ever since man discovered how to grow crops for food - an interesting by-product to an otherwise mundane task.  The term alcohol is derived from the Arabic word 'al-kohl' : the consmetic eye make-up produced through distillation. Earliest alcoholic beverages date back from 4000 BC. Spirits have ever since been called the "Water of Life".

It's said "Alcohol is a liquid good for preserving almost everything except secrets."

The book says whisky is the undisputed king of all spirits, followed by Rum, Gin, Vodka, Brandy and Tequila. 

So, our Nadan Kallu, wine and Beer have no place in it. 

Whiskey is born naturally and drunk naturally. The making of whisky involves only materials provided by nature. Water, yeast, peat, barley, maize, cone or wheat. This along with clear water, cool air, the cold climate and the action of oaken casks with the whisky, all contribute to its unique flavour. This is why whisky is very rarely used in cocktails. Purist insist that the best way to drink Scotch, Irish, Tennessee, Bourbon or Rye is straight sipping. 

Peter Mackie Founder of the 'White House' Whiskey says "As in the other things, there are good and bad whiskies. If we cannot afford the best, we should save our money and do without it".

Basically all whiskies are made from cereals, water and yeast. How they differ is in their methods of distillation, their composition as well as type of cereals used. Each country have their own set of rules. Even how it is spelled differs. LikeScotch is without e - whisky, Ireland and USA spell it as whiskey. 

Scotch is a perfect mix of air, water, fire and the earth of Scotland. Irish is Ireland, Bourbon (51% American Indian Corn)  (Kentucky), Tennessee (distilleries - Jack Daniels and George Dickel) and Rye (Grain uses is 51% Rye) are all American. Canadians refer to it as Canadian Rye. 

Casks are important in its making. It can be done in three ways, Malt entirely made from Malted barley and distilled in a Pot still (huge copper vessel). The connoisseur can with little difficulty, literally 'taste' the region from which each malt comes. They are Lowland malt whiskies, Islay malt whiskey, Speyside malt whiskies and Highland malt whiskey. 

Making of malt whisky involves malting, mashing, fermentation, distillation and maturation - 3 to 50 years.

In Grain whisky, malted barley and unmalted cereals are mixed in proportion. The processing is also different; it is continuous unlike Malt which is batch processing. 

Blended is a mix of malt and grain. 

Today French drink more Scotch than Cognac as its production came to a standstill in 1880.

The prohibition era in the U.S.A. gave rise to a number of colloquial expressions. The practice of smuggling bottles of whiskey in one's boots led to the word 'bootlegger' entering the English language because clandestine whiskey makers operated their stills at night, their product became known as 'moonshine'. The lack of charred oak barrels also gave their product the name 'white lightning'/ The well known phrase 'the real McCoy' was originally coned in reference to Scotch being smuggled into the US by Captain Bill McCoy. 

Though it is claimed that further adding anything more flavorsome to whiskey is tantamount to sacrilege, the only exception is Drambuie (a malt whisky combined with honey)

Cheers is an English Toast. 'Sliante mhath' pronounced 'starngy var' meaning 'good health' is scottish,  'Slainte! is an Irish toast. 'Here's mud in your eye!" is American. "Okole Maluna Hauoli Maoli Oe!" is the Hawaiian toast for Rum. 'Proost!' is a Dutch toast for Gin. 'Na Zdorovia!' a Russian toast for Vodka. Brandy - 'A Votre Sante' - French for 'to your health'. 'Salud' a Spaish toast for Tequila. 

'In Rum lies truth' is an old saying. It could be White (Southern Caribbean specifically in Puerto Rico, Trinidad and Barbados.), Golden (Caribbean islands and Venezuela), Dark (Jamaica, Haiti, Martinique and Guyana) - this gives 'Planter's Puch' in cocktail. World's best-known cocktails are based on rum. 'Mai-Tai', 'Pina Colada' and 'Daiquiri' - Daiquiri is a place in Cuba and doctors used this as a medicine against Malaria. It goes extemely well with fruit juices, as medicine for healing wounds. 

Gin owes its modern sophisticated cachet to the Martini. Purity and flavor is the generosity of Gin. There is a myth that Gin is a ladies drink, greatest Macho advertisment for it is James Bond. Though it improves with age, it can be had immediately after it leaves the still. Carbonated water was orignally developed in the eighteenth century to emulate naturally sparking mineral water. This is mixed with Gin and is famous. 

Vodka means the little water. Now it is used as a base for mixed drinks. This is mainly from Russia and Poland. A touch of ginger beer, lemon and some ice, enhances its taste. 'Bloody Mary', 'Screwdriver' . It does not leave tell-tale signs on the breath. By stepping various herbs in it like Tarragon, honey, chilli, peppers, coffee, lemon or orange peel, you can get flavour into vodka. People like it with a 'tear' i.e. with the outside of the glass frosty and cold. 

Brandy means the spirit has been distilled from grape wine. All brandy is not cognic, but all cognic is brandy. Cognac is the brandy produced in the Cognac region of France - named 'Fine Champagne', 'Grande champagne' or 'Petite champagne'. Another way of differentiating is Three start VS(Very special), VSOP (Very special old pale)  and Xo (Extra Old) Brandy produced in the Armagnac region is Armagnac. Germany also have long tradition of making fine brandy. Americal brandy mainly comes from California. Fruit Brandies are spirits distilled directly from fruits. It is fine enough to drink it undiluted out of a snifter. The warmth of ones hand is enough to warm it up. A brandy cocktail called the 'Highball' is well known made mixing 2 ounces (60 ml) Brandy and Ginger Ale or club soda. Add a twist of lemon peel and stir gently. It is pored over ice into a tall glass. 

Mexico's most famous export, tequila is prodcued in only two designated regions in the country, one near Tequila and other near Tepatitlan. Tequila is distilled from the sap of the mature blue agave plant, also called the century plant. As agave is a succulent cactus with spiny leaves, it is sometimes nicknamed 'cactus whisky'. It takes two to tango. Margarita is the most popular cocktail - 2 ounces (60ml) of Tequila, 1/2 ounce (15ml)  Cointreau made from brandy and orange peep and 1 tablespoon limejuice. All these are shaken with ice and drained into a cocktail glass rim rubbed with lime and dipped into a salt. 

Know 'how much is enough' and 'how much is too much'. Provide plenty of food and non-Alcoholic  Beverage. 

Culinary Literature

 

Culinary literature reminds us that food is never just food.

It is memory simmering on a slow flame, culture served on a plate, and love passed quietly from one generation to the next. Between recipes and recollections, these stories feed not only our appetite, but our sense of belonging—proving that sometimes, the most profound truths are found in the kitchen.

What do we really discuss at a culinary literary meet?

Everything—and then some.

We talk about books written by chefs, where recipes come seasoned with life stories.

We savour novels where food lingers on the page, evoking memory, longing, love, and loss.

We explore books about food—its history, politics, culture, and quiet power.

And yes, we even celebrate recipe books, where instructions transform into inherited wisdom.

At the Cochin Book Club meet, it was a platter of books and ideas—rich, varied, irresistible. Conversations flowed like well-aged wine, yes we spoke about the 'spirits' of the world too; pages were turned with hunger, and by the end, we were all happily drooling—for food, for stories, for more such meetings.

Because in culinary literature, the kitchen becomes a library, the table a storyteller, and reading… a feast.

Lessons from Big Basket

Republic Day is a reminder of India’s freedom, identity, and the nation’s reclaiming of its sovereignty. We often speak about wealth, resources, and industries taken during British rule, but there’s another story that sits quietly on our plates. Indian food didn’t just travel with the British—it was adapted, renamed, and carried back without its roots.

British officials living in India ate Indian food every day. Their cooks were Indian, their ingredients local, and their tastes shaped by Indian kitchens. But when these dishes crossed borders, their names, regions, and stories rarely travelled with them.

From Khichdi to Kedgeree: A 2,000-Year-Old Comfort Food Transformed

The Ancient Origins

Khichdi’s roots stretch deep into ancient India. It is referenced in the Mahabharata (compiled between the 3rd century BCE and 3rd century CE), where Draupadi is said to have fed the Pandavas khichdi during exile, and in the Ain-i-Akbari (circa 1590), which records elaborate Mughal variations of the dish. In 1340 CE, Moroccan scholar Ibn Battuta described a rice-and-mung bean dish called “kishri,” commonly eaten for breakfast in India.

The Colonial Transformation

British East India Company officials encountered khichdi in the 17th and 18th centuries and adapted it to suit European tastes. Lentils were removed, while fish, boiled eggs, butter, and cream were added, and the dish evolved from “kidgeri” to “kedgeree.” 

The first written recipe appeared in 1790 in a diary by Scottish woman Stephana Malcolm. By the 1830s, kedgeree had become a Victorian breakfast staple, documented by food historian Clarissa Dickson Wright, and in 1861, Queen Victoria’s chief cook Charles Elmé Francatelli even created a special version for Florence Nightingale.

Milagu Thanni to Mulligatawny: The 18th Century Soup That Never Was

Tamil Origins

In South India, milagu thanni (literally “pepper water” in Tamil: milagu = pepper, thanni = water) was a thin, peppery broth similar to rasam, consumed for its warming and digestive properties. It was traditionally served at the end of meals as a digestive aid.

The Colonial Invention

During the 18th century, when British East India Company officials demanded soup courses for their dinners—something traditional Indian cuisine had never produced—Tamil servants in Madras (now Chennai) concocted a stew-like creation. They took their familiar pepper water and added what the British expected: meat stock, vegetables, lentils, and thickening agents.

Arthur Robert Kenney-Herbert (writing under the pen name “Wyvern”) documented in his 1878 book Culinary Jottings that authentic mulligatawny was “a thing of the past,” describing how a simpler South Indian preparation had been transformed into something unrecognisable.

The British mispronounced and anglicised “milagu thanni” as “mulligatawny,” and by the late 18th century, it had become an Anglo-Indian classic, featured prominently in British cookbooks despite its Tamil roots being rarely acknowledged.

The Great Flattening: When Everything Became “Curry”

The Birth of Curry Powder

India’s countless regional gravies—each with distinct spice balances, cooking methods, and cultural meanings—were reduced to a single English word: “curry.” The term itself derived from the Tamil word kaṟi (meaning “sauce”), which the British applied broadly to all Indian dishes.

To make these flavours “replicable” back home, commercial curry powder was invented. The first commercial curry powder was sold by Sorlie’s Perfumery in London in 1784. Brands like Crosse & Blackwell and Sharwood’s were established in the late 18th century, marketing pre-mixed blends that supposedly captured “authentic Indian taste.”

The Reality: Traditional Indian cooking has never used “curry powder.” Instead, it relies on region-specific masalas—spice mixtures freshly ground for particular dishes. Garam masala in North India differs entirely from sambar powder in the South, and from the Bengali panch phoron or Goan recheado masala.

Royal Tables and Secret Cravings

The Public and Private Divide

As colonial society became more racially rigid, European food dominated public dining. Yet many British officials developed a secret fondness for Indian curries. One anecdote tells of a British army wife caught squatting on her sofa, devouring curry and rice, fleeing in embarrassment when discovered—it was considered too “native” to admit publicly.

Queen Victoria’s Curry Connection

In August 1887, Queen Victoria’s Indian attendant Abdul Karim prepared curry for her. She noted in her diary on August 20, 1887: “Had some excellent curry prepared by one of my Indian servants.”

Following this encounter, Victoria employed Indian cooks who ground their own spices using traditional methods. Her Swiss cook, Gabriel Tschumi, who joined the royal kitchens in 1898, described how Indian cooks killed their own halal meat and ground curry powder between two large round stones, refusing to use commercially available curry powder.

Fact Check: While Victorian cook Tschumi claimed curry was served “each day at luncheon,” food historian Annie Gray disputes this, noting that surviving ledgers show curry featured on Victoria’s menus twice weekly in the late 1880s: chicken curry on Sundays and fish curry on Tuesdays.

The Royal Legacy: Victoria’s grandson, King George V, insisted on curry every single day, cementing its place in British royal cuisine.

The Plantation Economy

Tea cultivation was actively promoted during British rule through massive plantations and policy interventions. The British established tea estates in Assam (first commercial plantations in the 1830s) and Darjeeling to break China’s monopoly on the tea trade.

The Indian Transformation

But Indian kitchens transformed this imposed commodity. Milk, ginger, cardamom, cloves, black pepper, and tulsi turned British-style tea into something entirely new: masala chai. This spiced, sweetened, comforting version became more beloved than plain British tea—a small but significant victory of Indian taste over colonial imposition.

The Language of Indian Bread

[23/01, 12:31] Shaila CBC Kochi Fame And Fables: In Indian homes, rotis and chapatis were everyday staples. In colonial clubs and British dining rooms, however, naan-style breads became the face of “Indian food,” especially at formal meals. Over time, these breads travelled abroad as stand-ins for Indian cuisine—flattening a vast tradition that spans bajra rotis, bhakris, appams, and countless regional flatbreads.

The Chapati Movement

Bread also carried meaning beyond the plate. During the 1857 uprising, chapatis were quietly passed from village to village across North India. With no written message, their circulation acted as a silent signal of mobilisation—ordinary, familiar, and impossible to ban without suspicion. Long before being reduced to restaurant shorthand, the chapati had already served as a tool of resistance.

What Never Left Home 

While names changed abroad, Indian kitchens never stopped cooking khichdi, pongal, dal, chai, and jaggery-based sweets. Women passed recipes down quietly through generations, communities shared meals during difficult times, and food stayed rooted in daily life.

Mughal emperors had their own elaborate versions: Emperor Jahangir loved a spicy khichdi enriched with pistachios and raisins, naming it “lazeezan” (meaning “the delicious”). The Nawab of Awadh, Nasir-ud-din Haidar Shah (1827-1837), was famous for his chef’s royal khichdi made entirely from pistachios and almonds, painstakingly cut to resemble lentils and rice.

A Different Journey Today

This Republic Day, we remember the struggles behind our freedom while celebrating how Indian cuisine now travels the world by choice—shared, loved, and embraced, just as we welcome global flavours at our table. Indian food today stands confident and global, recognised and respected for what it truly is. From Chicken Tikka Masala to Michelin-starred chefs and regional cuisines like Chettinad and Kashmiri Wazwan, Indian flavours are celebrated worldwide.

The story comes full circle. What was once taken and renamed now arrives with its own name, its own voice. Cooking these dishes today isn’t about nostalgia, but about carrying forward a legacy that endured quietly in Indian kitchens and now stands proudly on the world’s table—one recipe at a time.

Just thought this would be of interest.  Imagine I read this in bigbasket!

Culinary Literature: Where Food, Memory, and Meaning Meet

Culinary Literature is far more than stories about cooking, restaurants, or recipes. It sits at the intersection of culture, memory, identity, history, and storytelling, transforming food from something we simply consume into something we interpret. Scholars describe it as a field where food becomes a lens to understand who we are, who we have been, and who we aspire to be—because, as food writer Molly Wizenberg famously said, “Food is never just food.” [cambridge.org] 1. What Makes Literature ‘Culinary’? Culinary literature includes: Food‑centered novels Memoirs by chefs and food writers Recipe books with narrative elements Essays, travelogues, and food criticism Culinary crime fiction Even philosophical and anthropological writing on food Food writing may take many forms—memoir, travel, criticism, even noir. Anthony Bourdain’s Kitchen Confidential, for example, didn’t just describe kitchen life; it opened a genre of gritty, real, behind‑the‑scenes culinary memoirs. [ala-choice...guides.com] 2. Why Food Works So Powerfully in Literature Food is Identity Literature often uses food to reflect race, class, gender, and national belonging. Culinary texts reveal how food carries culture—recipes, tastes, rituals—and how these shape personal and shared histories. [assets.cambridge.org] Food is Memory From Proust’s madeleine to the sticky rice and butter in Asako Yuzuki’s Butter (which you beautifully described), culinary memory works through the senses, triggering stories that emotion alone cannot unlock. Food is Symbolism Like Water for Chocolate shows how food can express desire, rebellion, grief, and passion—all at once. Scholars describe such works as using gastronomy as a narrative device to explore deeper emotional or cultural layers. [researchgate.net] 3. Culinary Literature in Your Conversations Your upcoming culinary meetup has already touched upon many sub‑genres: 📚 Culinary Crime Fiction Agatha Christie’s food‑based mysteries (Four and Twenty Blackbirds, A Pocket Full of Rye) Murder on the Menu anthology Paradise of Food—blending horror and gastronomy A Certain Hunger—psychological, macabre, and food‑obsessed All of these fall under the “darker side of food literature,” where cuisine becomes a device of tension, transgression, and taboo. 🍫 Culinary Magical Realism Chocolat (Joanne Harris) Like Water for Chocolate (Laura Esquivel) Here, food becomes enchantment—transforming emotions, altering relationships, and shaping destinies. 🍽️ Culinary Memoirs & Chef Narratives Anthony Bourdain’s Kitchen Confidential Gabrielle Hamilton’s Blood, Bones & Butter (female perspective on the chef world) [ala-choice...guides.com] Padma Lakshmi’s culinary memoirs These books show the kitchen as a battleground, a refuge, and sometimes, a confessional. 📕 Food Anthropology & History Masala Lab by Krish Ashok — Indian food through the lens of science K.T. Achaya — one of the most respected Indian food historians, chronicling how taste, culture, and history shape cuisine (Your linked piece highlights his impact on understanding the evolution of Indian food traditions.) 📔 Recipe Books as Literature Historically, recipe books weren't just manuals—they were cultural documents reflecting women's roles, migration, social structures, and shifting taste. Scholars argue that recipe books must be read like any other literary text, with philosophical and anthropological depth. [bloomsbury...ibrary.com] 4. Culinary Literature in Popular Culture Films Salt and Pepper Cheeni Kum Amish (Assamese film touching on darker themes) These films show how food imagery can create humor, romance, or even horror. Real Life Blending with Literature Your playful observations about book fairs selling more chole bhature, or biryani and shawarma outselling books at fairs in Lahore, show how food irresistibly competes with literature—even at places dedicated to reading! 5. What Makes Culinary Literature So Special? It activates all the senses Good food writing makes you taste the words. You felt this strongly while reading Butter—the textures, aromas, cravings jumping off the page. It connects everyday life with intellectual exploration Food is ordinary, universal. But in literature, it becomes extraordinary—a gateway into: colonial histories family trauma migration gender roles class hierarchies spirituality pleasure and guilt It balances joy with the unsettling For every comforting food memoir, there is a dark, unsettling narrative like Paradise of Food, reminding us that food can represent violence, control, and hunger—both literal and metaphorical. 6. Reading, Writing, and Culinary Literature Your earlier reflections on reading and writing connect beautifully here: Reading culinary literature is not just entertainment—it’s the assimilation of culture, memory, and identity through taste. Writing about food can be cathartic. Many food writers describe their stories as “flowing out” from deep emotional places. Food becomes a narrative medium—part fact, part imagination, part memory. 7. A Closing Thought: Why Culinary Literature Matters Culinary literature reminds us that to eat is to remember, to imagine, to feel, and to belong. It is one of the most democratic genres—anyone who has ever eaten can connect to it, yet it opens doors into worlds far beyond the plate. From thattukadas in Kochi to Parisian patisseries, from biryani at Lahore book fairs to “butter and soy” on Japanese rice, from your family's stories to the novels you read—culinary literature captures it all. It tells us that food is not just nourishment. It is narrative. It is culture. It is emotion. It is identity. And above all, it is shared.

Pesarattu & Allam Pachadi

 

Ingredients

Whole green gram (moong dal)

Rice (optional, for crispiness)

Ginger

Green chillies

Cumin seeds

Salt

Water

Oil or ghee for cooking

🥣 Preparation Steps

Soak: Rinse and soak whole moong dal (and rice if using) for 4–6 hours or overnight.

Grind: Drain and blend with ginger, green chillies, cumin, and salt to a smooth batter. Add water as needed.

Rest: Let the batter rest for 30 minutes (optional but helps texture).

Cook: Heat a pan, pour a ladle of batter, and spread it thin like a dosa. Drizzle oil or ghee around the edges.

Flip: Cook until golden and crisp, then flip if desired.

Serve: Traditionally served with ginger chutney or upma.

Here’s a summary of how to make Ginger Chutney (Allam Pachadi), a popular South Indian condiment that pairs beautifully with idli, dosa, vada, and especially pesarattu:

🌶️ Ingredients

Fresh ginger – sliced (not finely chopped to avoid bitterness)

Onions – cubed and separated into layers

Chana dal & urad dal – for texture and aroma (can substitute with peanuts)

Dry red chillies – for heat

Tamarind – soaked or added directly

Jaggery – for sweetness

Salt – to taste

Oil – for sautéing

🍳 Preparation Steps

Soak tamarind in ¼ cup water or set aside for blending later 1.

Heat oil in a pan and fry chana dal and urad dal until golden. Add red chillies and fry until crisp 1.

Remove dal and chillies from the pan and let them cool.

In the same pan, sauté onions and ginger until onions turn pinkish-golden. Avoid browning the ginger 1.

Cool all ingredients, then blend with salt, jaggery, and tamarind until smooth 1.

Optional tempering: You can temper with mustard seeds, curry leaves, and a pinch of hing if desired.

Eating India ~ Chitrita Banerji (116 of 2024)

In Eating India, Chitrita Banerji takes us on a thrilling journey through a nation’s food formed by generations of arrivals, assimilations and conquests. In mouth-watering prose, she explores how each wave of newcomers brought innovative new ways to combine the subcontinent’s rich native spices with the vegetables, fish, grains and pulses that are the staples of the Indian kitchen. Along the way she visits traditional weddings, tiffin rooms, city markets, roadside cafes and tribal villages to find out how India’s turbulent history has shaped its people and its cuisine.

Eating India: An Odyssey into the Food and Culture of the Land of Spices by Chitrita Banerji is a captivating exploration of India’s culinary landscape, interwoven with its cultural, historical, and social fabric. Banerji’s work is more than just a chronicle of recipes and ingredients; it’s a heartfelt journey that delves into the soul of Indian cuisine.

A Journey Through Regions and Cultures

Banerji takes the reader across the length and breadth of India, from the bustling streets of Delhi to the serene landscapes of Kerala. Each chapter unfolds the unique culinary traditions of a region, influenced by its geography, history, and diverse communities. She expertly ties food to identity, whether it’s the distinct cuisines of the Parsi, Anglo-Indian, or Jewish communities, or the royal kitchens of Lucknow and Hyderabad.

History Served on a Platter

What sets Eating India apart is Banerji’s ability to weave historical narratives into her culinary exploration. She discusses the influence of colonizers like the British, Portuguese, and Mughals, as well as ancient trade links that brought spices to Indian shores. Her reflections on how these interactions shaped Indian cuisine offer a nuanced understanding of its evolution.

Personal Reflections and Sensory Descriptions

Banerji’s prose is both evocative and intimate. Her personal anecdotes, such as rediscovering childhood flavors or reflecting on her Bengali heritage, bring warmth and authenticity to the narrative. Her vivid descriptions make the flavors, aromas, and textures almost tangible, transporting readers into India’s vibrant kitchens and bustling markets.

A Celebration of Diversity

The book celebrates India’s diversity, not just in terms of food but also the stories of people who preserve culinary traditions. Banerji highlights the role of food in rituals, festivals, and daily life, emphasizing how it bridges gaps between communities and generations.

While the book is richly detailed, readers unfamiliar with Indian cuisine might find some references or regional specifics challenging to grasp without prior context. Additionally, the narrative occasionally meanders, which might feel digressive to some.

Whether you're a seasoned foodie or a curious traveler, Eating India offers a feast for the mind and soul, leaving you hungry for more—both on the plate and on the page.

The book covers:

• Bengal: Land of a Thousand Rivers: Exploring the rich culinary heritage of Bengal, influenced by its rivers and abundant resources.
• In Pursuit of the Portuguese: From Bengal to Goa: Tracing the Portuguese influence on Indian cuisine, particularly in Goa and Bengal.
• Road Food on the Highway: Delving into the diverse street foods and roadside eateries across India.
• A Southern Thali in Karnataka: Examining the traditional multi-course meals of Karnataka and their cultural significance.
• The Anglo-Indian Table: Investigating the fusion cuisine that emerged during British colonial rule.
• Pilgrimage and Pageantry in Amritsar: Highlighting the culinary traditions associated with religious practices in Amritsar.
• Banquets of the Imperial Palace—Muslim Style: Discussing the opulent Mughal culinary traditions.
• Benaras: Feasting and Fasting in Shiva’s City: Exploring the unique food customs in the holy city of Varanasi.
• Art and Texture on the Gujarati Platter: Focusing on the vegetarian delicacies of Gujarat.
• Bombay: City by the Sea: Looking into the cosmopolitan food culture of Mumbai.
• Kerala: Rich Cuisines of the Pepper Kingdom: Delving into the spice-rich cuisine of Kerala.
• The Vanishing Jews of India: Exploring the culinary contributions of India's Jewish communities.
• The Indigenous Pot: Discussing traditional cooking methods and utensils.
• Saffron Desires: Examining the use of saffron in Indian cuisine.

Cook Books - 98 of 2024